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9000 Struts
Swapping the hardware


Now comes the fun part!
You need to compress the spring so you can remove the bearing without launching it through your ceiling!

Place the compressor as close to the ends of the spring as possible. For me I had to go one ring above the end. Try to compress the spring evenly by turning each side right after each other. Once you see that the spring is loose on it's mount, that is good enough.

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Now you can remove the top nut that you loosened before. Pull off the bearing, strut mount bracket and then pull off the spring.

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The last thing to do is swap the hardware from the old strut to the new one. Remove the rubber stop and pull off the rubber boot. There is also a small metal ring that goes on the bottom of the strut where the spring sits.

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Place the metal seat on the bottom of the strut and then put the rubber boot on the new strut and add the stop.
Now put the spring back on making sure to line up spring with the seat.

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Place the top mount and strut bearing back on the strut. The rubber boot has a tail on it which must be lined up with the notch in the strut mount. Once everything is lined up, tighten down the top nut and then remove the spring compressor.

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Now you can place the strut back on the car and tighten the 5 mounting bolts to spec. The last step is to torque down the top nut to 50 foot pounds or until your small pipe wrench doesn't move it anymore!

Do the same thing to do other side and you are good to go!

Put the wheels back on, let the car off the jack and torque down the lug nuts.
It's time for a nice cold beer!



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