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Rear Suspension Bushings


There are three different sets of bushings on the rear suspension. These are #7, #15, and #17 in the picture. The most expensive is #17 around $100, and the others are fairly reasonable in the $20-$10 range.
Based off of others experience, #17 is the most common bushing to fail.

It is very difficult to determine which bushings are bad just by looking at them on the car. If you have symptoms of tire cupping, high negative camber, or general handling problems then you probably need to refresh the bushings.

I have heard of subframe bushings going bad, but it is less common than the others.

Additionally, you cannot replace the four inner bushings (#7) very easily. The bolts are very long and require the entire rear subframe to be dropped so the bolts can be removed. Dropping the subframe looks rather easy once the rear trailing arms are off, but it looks like the exhaust would need to be dropped as well.
Since I have a press, I decided the easiest way to tackle this job was to just remove the entire trailing arm from the car. This is actually pretty straight forward. My car is a southern car so there was no much rust on the bolts.

The first step is to remove the brake caliper. First disconnect the brake line as the bracket supporting the lines will need to be removed later. To prevent brake fluid from emptying on the floor, I use a vacuum hose nipple and place this over the hard line. You can buy a variety box of these at any auto parts store.
Next disconnect the two bolts holding the caliper to the hub. You don't need to zip tie the caiper to the spring. I did this before realizing I had to disconnect the brake line.
The next piece to disconnect is the hub.

Start by removing the ABS sensor plug. You just raise the clip and gently pull it out.

You also have to remove the emergency brake cable. Use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull the end of the spring out of the backing plate. Then you can remove the other end of the spring. I then used a screwdrive to push on the e-brake lever and pulled off the cable. Once the cable is loose you can then disconnect the bracket holding the cable on the trailing arm.
Now remove the big shock bolt. This is pretty tight so a nice 1/2" breaker bar and pipe extension help break this baby loose.

To gain access to the nuts holding the hub to the arm, it is much easier to remove the top link bolt and get it out of the way. Now remove the two nuts holding the brake line bracket. Take note on how the bracket is installed to make reinstall easier! Once the bracket is off, you see four nuts holding the hub. Simply remove these four nuts and the entire hub will fall off.
Before you can remove the lower cross stay bolt, there is a plastic piece that needs to be removed. Just remove the two clips with a screwdriver and it slips off.

Before removing all of the remaining bolts, there is one small nut on the trailing arm bracket that holds the e-brake cable which also needs to be removed. Now remove the lower cross-stay bolt, the sway bar bolt, and the three bolts holding the trailing arm bushing to the car.

Now take a picture of the bracket attached to the arm. The angle of the bracket and bolt orientation need to be remembered for reinstall.

Now that the arm is removed, click the step 3 tab to see how to replace the bushings.



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