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Front Suspension: Lower Control Arm Bushings

To test out the lower bushings you can simply unbolt the ball joint from the arm and then pull, twist, and push the lower a-arm around feeling for any play.
In my case the A-Arm felt tight, however I am chasing a very annoying clunk in the front of the car.

I decided to go ahead and pull the lower arm off the car and replace the rear bushing. Too bad I didn't fix the clunk!
Be prepared to get a new alignment after removing and reinstalling the arm.

The rear bushing is the most expensive, but it also very easy to replace. The front bushing requires a press to remove and replace.
Pulling off the arm is a straight forward affair. Unbolt the ball joint, remove the one bolt for the front bushing and the two bolts for rear bushing and the arm will be able to be removed.
To replace the rear bushing, you first need to create a template so you can refit the new bushing in the correct position. The purpose of the template is to ensure that the clock angle of the housing with respect to the control arm is unchanged on reinstallation. I used a piece of cardboard and cut it until it fit flush. You could also use some paint to make some lines.
There are two sides to the bushing so be sure to carefully look at the old one when you remove it.

Install the new bushing and slightly tighten the nut. Using your cardboard template, set the bushing in the correct spot and then torque down the nut as specified in the Haynes manual.
I did not replace the front bushing as it looked very good and felt good using a screwdriver through the middle.

Reinstalling the arm is just as easy as removing it. Torque the bolts down according to spec and then be ready to get another alignment! Total time to replace the rear bushings on both sides was about one hour.

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