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Once everything is clean and dry, screw down the oil pickup screen and baffle. These screws do not need to be super tight. Just tight.

Now you need to clean up the mating surface of the block so you can apply some gasket sealant. I usually use some paper towels to clean up the oil. Once the surface is dry of oil, I put a small coat of gasket sealant all around the block.

You do not want to slop it on, just a very thin, smooth coat will do.

Reinstalling the oil pan can be a pain. I used a small hammer to help get the oil pan past the transmission. If you did not remove the tranny motor mount bolt and jack up the tranny, this is where you might want to reconsider!

Once the pan is in place, start bolting it down. I usually do one on each corner to make sure the pan is centered and to set the gasket sealant quickly. Then just start filling in the holes. Do not over tighten the bolts. They just need to be tight, not super tight. They only need to hold the pan up.


Now replace the small tranny cover. Again, do not over tighten the small bolts.

Push the exhaust back up (making sure the bracket hanger is on the correct side) and slide the rubber hangers over the cat converter mounts. I always coat the exhaust bolts with some anti-seize. The higher temperature stuff you can get, the better.

Now insert the two bolts into lower bracket, do not tighten them down. This will help you line up the down pipe to the turbo. Bolt down the down pipe. I usually make these pretty tight since they can loosen up after a lot of heat cycles. Once the down pipe is secure, then tighten up the 2 bracket bolts.

Now reconnect the two O2 plugs. Hopefully you remember which plug goes to which sensor!


If you haven't done so already, put the oil drain plug back into the oil pan and fill the car up with 4 quarts of good quality synthetic oil and take the car out and drive around the block.

While the car is still running, check the oil pan for leaks and also feel around the two flexible exhaust pieces for air coming out. These are usually the first pieces to start leaking in the exhaust.

Once you confirm there are no oil leaks, shut off the car.

While the car is hot, double check the 3 turbo down pipe bolts. Make sure they haven't loosened up on you.

If everything looks good, then reinstall the engine cover and call it a day!


If you haven't done so yet, it is highly recommended that you upgrade your car to the latest PCV system. It helps prevent sludge by keeping crankcase pressure under control. It costs around $50 and takes about 1 hour to install.

For the DIY procedure click here:
Install PCV Kit#6



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