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After removing the idler pulley, the tensioner pulley is accessible from below the car and from above the car.

Due to space limitations, we decided to take a 6mm hex wrench and shorten it with a dremel.
After that we attached an extension to the hex wrench. Using your fingers to hold the wrench into the nut, it should break loose. I then used my fingers to unscrew the bolt.




Replacing the pulleys is straight forward. The bolts do not have to be super tight, just enough to hold them in their spots. Some mid-range (blue) loctite can be used to guarantee the bolts stay in place.

I do not recommend the red loctite. This stuff holds to strong and the bolts will be too difficult to break free the next time you have to do this job!

If you got the 2415 short belt, this is a very tight fit. You have to compress the tensioner a little bit more, and slide te belt onto the right side idler last. There is no groove on the idler and it will slip on easier. The 2425 belt will go on without any hassel.

Once the belt is on you can release the tensioner and start the car. You want to make sure the belt is not walking off of any of the pulleys and no strange noises are being made.

The last step is to replace the protective cover and attach the wheel. Don't forget to torque the wheel bolts to 80 ft/lbs!



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