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Step 2 - Installing the Alternator

If you are installing a newer 140 amp alternator to replace your 130 amp version, there are two things that must be done. Otherwise the new alternator will not fit properly on the alternator bracket. You can do a test fit on the bench and see what needs to be done. Just set the bracket on the alternator and make sure you can install both mounting bolts.

I did these modifications from under the car as I already had the damn thing in the hole. I did not feel like removing it again!

The first modification is to the bracket. It needs to be relieved a tiny bit. You do not want to sand down the plastic piece on the end as this plastic covers the live 12 volt plate.

The second part to be sanded is a plastic ridge on the alternator. This is just plastic and there is nothing to worry about.

After doing this the alternator should sit fully in the bracket and both bolts should go in easily.
Now that you know the alternator will fit on the bracket, put the alternator back into the hole the same way you got it out! For me, it went in very easy from the top.

Now reinstall the alternator bracket onto the engine. These four bolts do not have to be super tight. Just hand tight will do.

Install the alternator onto the bracket. I put some antiseize on the two mounting bolts as they looked a little rusted when I pulled them out.

You can properly torque down the bottom bolt, but you need to guess on the top bolt.

Install the two wires back onto the alternator.

Replace the bottom PCV hose if you removed it.
Install the tensioner and fit the serpentine belt. If you can't remember how it fits, refer to this page. Serpentine Belt

Release the tensioner and double check the belt is sitting correct on all of the pulleys.
Now comes the fun part!

You need to push the engine back into position so the top mount can be reinstalled

You can set the top mount brace onto the engine and see how off the engine is. Then push on engine until you are close.

Start tightening down the four bolts in increments. Start with one and go a couple of turns then move to the next one. Eventually all four will be seated and the mount will be lined up.

Now install the top mount and tighten it down to spec.

Once this is all done, you can torque down the rear mounting nut.
Now it is time to fit the exhaust. I usually start with the lower two bolts, but do not tighten them fully. This allows you some room to move the top piece around.

Install the turbo flange by tightening down all three bolts in a circular pattern. You may want to use new studs and nuts if the old ones are looing bad. Once all three of these bolts are tight, you can tighten up the lower two bolts.
You are getting very close now!

Hook up the battery, reinstall the throttle body hose and PCV hose.

Double check everything and make sure there are no extra parts laying around!

Before installing the plastic wheel well cover, start the car and watch how the belt is running. It should be running smooth and centered on all of the pulleys.

Using a volt meter, check the voltage at the battery. You should have around 14 volts.

Feel around the turbo flange for any leaks and double check the tightness of the three bolts. Sometimes they loosen up with the heat.

Once evertyhing looks good, you can shut the car off, reinstall the cover, throw on the wheels and start drinking the rest of your six pack!


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